I’m looking for tips on how to avoid having your board hit you when surfing.
Yesterday, I went for a floater/foam climb at the end of a 4’-5’ wave at Hookipa, going left from Green Trees where the wave goes from a shallow reef to a deeper section. I got rolled after the turbulence hit me, and the second that I came up for air, I felt my fins hit my board and my face! I got a fairly severe laceration in both my palm and my cheek. I immediately felt the open wounds and thought “oh no, got to get to Kaiser ASAP to get this stitched up!”.
I paddled straight into the beach, and waved down the west end lifeguards who promptly cleaned and bandaged the wounds (Thanks Jack!).
I’m wondering how one can avoid this?
I got rolled pretty good by the wave, so I really wanted to come up for air, but it sure would have been better to have waited underwater for a second more. I always know that when I don’t feel tension on the leash, the board is potentially in a bad spot. I have no idea how the board could have come ricocheting so hard right at me! Given the force on my hand, the injury to my head could have been quite a bit worse if I had not put my hand in front of my face.
I have noticed that the rollings I get from an unsuccessful floater in hollow waves are quite severe as well.
Any advice for avoiding such injuries?