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Let's Talk about Kelly Slater!

Amazing article…

10 Questions with Kelly Slater

I like the finishing quote:

I’ve been one heat away, and more likely, one single scoring ride away from three world titles in my career. That’s how it goes in life and in sport. If it’s all only about the end game and the result then just don’t bother trying 'cause you’re gonna fail 'cause we all have things to learn. When you lose, that’s where you find things you haven’t learned yet. And when you lose you find out who your good friends are. And when you win, the people most upset are the ones who really don’t care about you.

How’s this 10 point ride from Rio in 2014:

In touch, in tune and total awareness…comes with experience, maturity and education…all of this combining extraordinary focus and creating your reality.

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I’ve always been impressed with how analytical, how mathematical Slater is when he’s competing. He’s totally aware of the numbers, and somehow is able to let go of that, become totally present, and surf with a spontaneity and precision that is awestriking. Even non-surfers that I know, upon watching him surf, have commented on how he stands apart.

That barrel in Rio reminds me of his barrel at Ocean Beach, SF, a bunch of years back:

@doug, You’re mentioned at around 6:29 in this clip of Kelly’s Surfer Poll speech: